Designers Don’t Always Dictate Fashion Trends – StyleSight Knows Who Does

Michael Fisher Men's Editor for StyleSight

By Eric Claiborne

When you’re strolling down 5^th Avenue or Rodeo Drive or perusing the men’s section at Harrods do you ever think to yourself, “Where in the world did the idea for harem shorts or skulls and cross bones on EVERYTHING come from”? Or did you buy into the 80’s trend and purchase neon colored T-shirt in every color last summer? As you already know, consumers as a whole spend billions of dollars to keep up with the latest trends in menswear each year. Fashion is a huge business and many of us don’t take it seriously, but retailers can’t survive without consumers purchasing their goods and many employees depend on these companies for their income.

Research, planning and forecasting plays an integral role in the clothing and accessories we buy each season. StyleSight the leading global provider of trend, content, tools and technology for the style and fashion industries is a major influence on the shirts that we put on our backs. I had the distinct pleasure of speaking with the Men’s Editor, Michael Fisher, who shed a bit of light on his role in the company, what’s hitting the runways next Fall/Winter and the future of menswear.

EC: What does Stylesight contribute to the fashion industry? How does this affect consumers?

MF: Stylesight is the largest and most influential trend forecasting and analysis agency in the world, with thousands of clients ranging from runway designers to specialty retailers to hotel chains. Anyone who needs to know what’s around the corner with regards to influencing consumers would benefit from our products. A typical Stylesight client enjoys inspiring trend forecasts for men, women, juniors, young men, children and interiors. We also have comprehensive trend analysis of all the major runways and trade shows and capture the cutting edge fashions on the streets of cities like Paris, New York, Milan, London, Tokyo, LA and Seoul. In short, clients are able to take all of the information we provide them and filter it down to their own product development needs for their target market. We give them all the tools they need to succeed.

EC: What is your role at the company and how did you achieve this status?

MF: I am the men’s editor, in charge of trend analysis of the runways, major apparel trade shows, and the global streets. I work closely with my fellow editors from other markets as it’s a real team effort at Stylesight. We all bounce ideas off of each other and share inspiration with everyone. We always have our eyes and ears open and the job is a 24/7 passion for all of us. In addition to typical “fashion” stuff, we are constantly going to museums, watching people on the street and checking out new tastes in music and pop culture. Prior to Stylesight, I was in the retail segment of the fashion industry, working most recently as the men’s fashion director in charge of designer collections at Bloomingdale’s and working in men’s buying for Barneys New York. I began my career working in marketing and advertising at Polo Ralph Lauren. I’ve been in love with trend forecasting since taking a course freshman year of college and am so lucky to finally be in a position where I focus on this very niche part of the industry 100% of the time.

EC: Many designers have shown their Fall/Winter 2010 collections at Paris, Milan, and London fashion weeks, this year. What were the noticeable trends in men’s collections?

MF: We were very happy with the F/W 10 shows in Milan and Paris. I attended most of the shows myself and came away with some very strong messages. A few of the major stories that will certainly be influential for the season include: “Urbane Country,” a trend that combines the sophistication of an urban professional with the autumnal colors and lush layers of the country. Quilted, wax-coated jackets, riding boots and bulky, marled sweaters are all part of this trend. C.P. Company and Etro were two of the best examples. The next trend is called “Modern Military” and focuses on the interesting juxtaposition of ceremonial military details with updated fits. There were some very cool wool military coats at Burberry Prorsum and a “hybrid” trench coat at Raf Simons. Other trends included “New Ivy” (new interpretations of preppy Ivy League style like cropped blazers, patterned duffel coats and lots of camel hair), “Soft Protection” (quilted, padding and reinforced areas as well as workwear design details) and “Techno Tailoring” (a technical and futuristic way of doing tailored clothing…utilitarian closures, shiny surfaces and active styling).

EC: Do you predict that American designers will be on board with what was seen at the European shows or will they go in their own directions?

MF: For the most part, as men’s fashion catches up with women’s with regards to speed of trends to market, it’s only natural that more “normal” men become interested in trends and style. With so much instant information at their fingertips, male consumers are increasingly seeking the major trends at retail. America has always been known for its sportswear, but with younger consumers spending more money on tailored clothing and taking an interest in dressing up, the trends we see in Europe are just as influential in the US as the shows in New York. Anyway, that’s what we do as trend analysts – to help distill what seems to be “in the air” and “out of reach” and make it suitable for the mass-marketed man. What I’m trying to say is that there’s always an understandable direction from even the most fashion-forward messages.

EC: In your opinion, what key luxury items would you say men should consider purchasing, that will remain in style for more than say just the Fall/Winter season?

MF: Every man should own the following “basics” in his wardrobe: A navy blazer, a grey flannel suit, a well-fitting white shirt, a collection of oxford cloth button-down shirts, straight-fitting dark denim, neutral-colored v-neck sweater in merino wool or cashmere, and classic wingtip brogues in brown. If you have those basic items, you can mix and match to so much and yes, they NEVER go out of fashion. You just add and edit as you go, throw in some key fashion pieces each season and call it a day.

EC: What less expensive items would you recommend would be essential to their wardrobe?

MF: I always brag about what the merchants at J. Crew are doing in menswear. You can get everything you need from their store or catalog. As I say above, invest in some button-up shirts (solids, basic stripes, and some checks or plaids), some v-neck or crew neck tees, a chambray shirt and some straight-fitting Levi’s jeans.

EC: Do you think designers are decreasing pricing due to the economic downturn or are retail prices remaining steady?

MF: Designers are absolutely taking the current economic situation into consideration when planning their collections. Retailers are very happy that some major players in the fashion industry have made a conscious effort to introduce some more “affordable” options into their assortments without sacrificing quality.

EC: How far in advance do most designers plan their collections?

MF: Most designers start planning their collections approximately 18 months in advance. It all starts at fabric trade shows where designers gather to buy materials for their collections. Interestingly enough, this is where most trends start. Yes, trends are typically dictated NOT by the latest and greatest fashion designer, but by small fabric mills in Italy or the UK. Once they attend these shows and see the available fabrics and materials, they get inspiration for how the collection will unfold.

EC: Who do you think is leading the pack in innovative design?

MF: For menswear right now, the most interesting direction is coming from Burberry Prorsum (masculine, British-influenced style), Lanvin (interesting contrast of luxurious dandy and active styling), and of course, Raf Simons from Jil Sander and his own namesake collection for a new take on minimalism.

EC: What do you think is the future of men’s fashion?

MF: For now, the future of men’s fashion lies with the words quality, heritage and authenticity. With so many brand revivals going on and interesting designer collaborations, men are realizing that they don’t need to drop a monthly mortgage payment to look cool. “Modernized tradition” as I call it will continue to influence the men’s market for quite some time. You’ll continue to find that masculine styles and innovative styling will inspire men of all ages.